This week has been the usual, quiet, SLOW, but there have been a few events that I find rather remarkable and worth sharing.
After a few failed attempts to cross the river (failed because the ferry won’t pass if there isn’t a vehicle crossing), I finally caught the ferry and made my way up to the swanky lodge to use the internet to upload the above blog entry. At the end of the day that was a failed attempt and an expensive half hour– thank god for weekend trips to Masindi to restock and communicate with the outside world! The evening ferry schedule runs every other hour (less frequent than the morning… and again, depending on if there is a vehicle crossing). So after draining my funds for half an hour I still had about an hour and a half to kill so I swung around to the abandoned poolside bar to look out over the landscape. The bar tender came around and I introduced myself to him telling him that I was the tourism warden’s PCV and that I would be here for two years. I asked him about the fire that was burning off in the distance on my side of the park and about the elephants that are rumored to come right up to the pool and drink. Yet another confirmation, cheeky buggers. I told him that I was not going home until I saw a lion, elephant and a shoebill stork, even if it meant I had to stay in Africa longer. After a short time he left to carry on with his work. I continued to scan the bank of the Nile below for elephants, but didn’t see any, so I took early leave of the lodge and headed back down to the landing, and wouldn’t you bloody know it!!!
As I rounded the bend there was a herd of elephants at the ferry landing! There were two little ones with them as well, about seven or eight in total. There was another herd, or another part of this herd about a half mile down the river. I was cautioned not to get too close, so I passed in a wide arch and sat down to watch them. As they browsed they came out away from the river bank and closer to me. I just sat there. It was incredible and a bit scary. The closer they got the bigger I realized they were. Nonetheless I am generally stubborn and was very intrigued, so I stayed there. The one with the smallest baby (which by virtue of that fact, probably makes here the most dangerous), ended up coming about twenty paces away from me before the ferry came. I stood slowly and reverse my arch and made my way to the ferry… walking. I personally believe that its best to remain calm around animals, especially ones that are reasonably intelligent and unquestionably stronger, bigger or faster than myself. The locals responded the way they seem to do to most of the wildlife around here, with a degree of fear. They ran frantically onto the ferry. They yelled at me to run… again, I am stubborn, so I walked.
It surprises me that a culture that is relatively not that far removed from its “aboriginal roots,” people seem quite afraid of many of the creatures found here, from beetles and toads up to elephants. Sure some of these things like bugs, can bite you and elephants have the ability to crush you like you are a bug…. But isn’t it better to try to develop a mutual respect with these animals than to breed a mutual fear??
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Saying that I think this may also be an appropriate point to mention the three superlative I won by a landslide vote. One of the other trainees in our last week decided to create superlatives. I got three by a huge margin: Loudest, Most Likely to go Feral or Command a Monkey Army, and Most Likely to Lose a Limb by COS (Close of Service). I was pleased to overhear Mona in the process of filling out her superlative exclaim, “Yeah! I know Sabrina messes with everything, but she’s smart about it! She knows what she’s doing!” Thanks for your vote of confidence! I reckon that unless some freak accident happens where, after I go feral, I accidentally happen upon some large or ferocious animal, yell out in fear, and my monkey army fails to come to my aid, I may in fact lose a limb. Otherwise I am fairly confident that I have made it twenty-four years harassing all sorts of wild beasts and I still have all my fingers and toes, much less, all four limbs. Not to mention that a year of that time was spent in the land down under which, through its own evolution, has created slew of strange and dangerous and/or venomous creatures.
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But back to this week, my other close encounter. The President of Uganda, Museveni, himself paid a visit to the newly formed district of Bulisa. I have read that Bulisa is one of the poorest districts in the country. It is also known to have potential, untapped oil resources, so there’s a definite potential for development and growth. Bulisa also boarders MFNP to the west, as such, quite a number of the park wardens and staff were extended invitations to come and hear his Excellency come and address the people of Bulisa. Almost as soon as we had left the park gate the road slowly became increasingly congested with people flowing out of distant villages to come and see their president.
I was on my way to Bulisa to meet with BIRUDO (Bulisa Initiative for Rural Development Organisation). My meeting, which I arrived in proper African time to (about an hour late due to transportation issues), took about an hour to complete. Afterwards the directors I met with took me and my escort, Charles- a CC ranger (community cons), to ‘Unique Restaurant’ for lunch. As we ate the stream of people continued, most of them on foot, some on bike (which means at least two and sometimes three people per bicycle). Everyone was coming looking very SMART. (I cursed the Brits quite frequently during training for this one. Looking “smart” means that you are dressed up, or at least looking professional, clothes ironed, shoes shines, and if you’re a female, you MUST be in a skirt!)
Charles and I finished our meal with the directors—posho (sorry, I have no way to equate this for you, but I like it and prefer it to matooke, just know it’s a staple food) and meat we managed to find a UWA vehicle to drive us down to the meeting place.
Ugandans love ceremony. I am not sure if the event was supposed to kick off at 2:00pm or if the president was supposed to arrive at two, but we got there just after two and were entertained for several hours by school choirs, women’s groups, and several others who sang songs for the occasion and performed traditional dances. I really like the song for the president and the local government officials which mostly consisted of calling out different positions and then singing “we thank you your Excellency for the hard work you are doing.” Sometime around 6:00 the President arrived. Even the president who arrived nearby in a helicopter, and then was rushed over in black (I’m pretty sure ALL high government officials arrive and leave in speedy black vehicles) in proper African Standard time. A few local officials came and spoke, some in English and the local language. I managed to pull a few words from the air, scarcely enough to make any sense of anything. Then Museveni spoke for about 20 minutes. A small black pickup– with somehow built-on stairs and a podium drove out to the middle of the sea of black faces. The president ascended and addressed his people, all in local language, while sipping a Coca-cola. I have no idea what was said for the next 20 minutes so my brain drifted off to think about potential home repairs. I felt a bit bad, he wasn’t even speaking a Bantu language, and I felt that it really couldn’t be helped. I’d been sitting still for over four hours now and my ADD was taking hold. Without the singing and stomping to capture my attention I was lost on my own head. Occasionally, Christine would lean over and give me a wee re-cap of what was being said. The president was sure to welcome the oil developers who sat in front of us, but never made a mention of UWA or the park—until he told the masses some apparently charged misinformation about resource sharing and recent arrests. He assured people that the issues would be corrected with a heavy hand. However, on the ride back, UWA staff seemed rather perturbed at inaccurate accusations. That’s the thing here. You are never too far from a rumor mill and word of mouth spreads with a greater velocity than wildfire. And anyone who’s ever played Chinese whispers or telephone knows that the thing said at the beginning is rarely, if ever, what the end of the telephone circle says. I guess it was good that he didn’t announce UWA’s presence to the community in light of the dark cloud he placed over us. That being said, half of us, including myself had UWA clearly showing on our shirts. And here I was, trying to proudly show my association and our name was muddied. This is my life.
The swarm of people who left the event was more heavily concentrated, but no less steady than the stream earlier in the day. People were still trickling back to their homes around 9:00pm. Bare in mind that it gets dark around 7:00 here, there are no street lights, and the moon does not rise until 8:45. Ugandans have amazing eyes.